Small town, big time

Metropolitan cities are often the cultural driving force of a country. In Estonia, Tallinn also carries a lot of historical and artistic weight. But when it comes to culture, the spotlight is on a small town that is a real gem for explorers.

Tallinn, early on a summer morning. It's mild and raining cats and dogs. But that doesn't stop us from making our way to a different kind of capital, namely one of the European Capitals of Culture for 2024. Our destination is the second largest Estonian city. Off we go in the direction of Tartu!

On the way there, the surroundings exude a touch of Canada. Estonia has a population of just over 1.3 million, half a million of whom live in Tallinn. As a result, there are plenty of trees and moose warning signs along the way. We wouldn't be surprised if a bear suddenly appeared on the road.

Vastness, silence and a Nordic vibe.

Closer to Tartu, nothing really changes. Estonia's second-largest city really isn't huge at all, so the transition between the forest and the foothills of Tartu is rather sudden. The first impression: cozy, quiet, picturesque, ancient. In fact, Tartu boasts a long history dating back to the 11th century. It is considered the oldest city in the countries we know today as the Baltic states.

Tartu's town hall square and showpiece

Tartu has a lot to tell. A large proportion of the 90,000 people who live in the city are students. The University of Tartu is the largest in the country and a university with a tradition dating back to the 17th century. Tartu will therefore have seen a party or two over the centuries.

If you want to understand this mini-metropolis better, a look at the map might help. As the crow flies, Tartu is less than 50 km from the Russian border. And like the whole of Estonia, Tartu was part of Russia for a long time, right up until the collapse of the Soviet Union. However, as is so often the case in European history, things are not quite so linear. In 1920, Estonia, Finland and the Soviet Union signed a peace treaty in Tartu, according to which the Soviet Union recognized Estonia's independence "for all time". The promise was kept for around 20 years.

Has seen a party or two: the university, here as a mural.

 

As the morning progresses, we can feel Tartu awakening. Street musicians appear and rehearsals for an evening musical performance are underway on a large stage in the city center. A bar with deckchairs opens by the Emajõgi River. We begin to understand how student life fits in with the tranquil setting of Tartu.

Everywhere in the city, art is being created or proudly displayed. A concert by several lyre boxes seems to be part of this, but it is certainly a matter of taste - such a performance is certainly loud.

We adapt to the leisurely rhythm and stroll through the old town, parks and along the river. The subtle way in which Tartu celebrates this special year is infectious. It's nice to see how this small town makes an unagitated appearance on the European cultural stage. After all, even much larger cities could learn something from Tartu's inspiring vein.

Sometimes the charm lies in the details.

More about the program of the European Capital of Culture Tartu 2024 here.