Unpolished

Sofia is one of the few European cities that has not been stamped with the interchangeable signature of tourism. Some may find the Bulgarian capital a little rough around the edges, but its charm, shaped by thousands of years of history, quickly becomes apparent. In short, Sofia is exciting and relentlessly authentic.

 

Those who travel to Sofia by plane have a front-row seat. The approach takes you directly over the city centre, offering an excellent view of all the towers, avenues, building blocks and the small mountain range called Vitosha right next to the city.

The main artery of Sofia, Vitosha Boulevard.

 

Those who then get out and head into the city by land will first encounter wide thoroughfares for road traffic and rather rough behaviour from people behind the wheel. Residential high-rise buildings from before the fall of the Berlin Wall alternate with newly constructed office buildings. Parks interrupt the development, while potholes reliably keep road users awake.

In the city centre itself, as in other cities in the former Soviet sphere of influence, there is an astonishing mix of buildings. Orthodox churches and cathedrals stand within sight of mosques and synagogues, while ancient excavations, concrete blocks and classicist palaces characterise the cityscape. Sofia, it quickly becomes clear, has seen it all before.

Relaxed vibes.

 

After many trips to different parts of the Balkans, a picture emerges over time, a feeling for how the region works and what defines the different cultures. For example, we found Belgrade to be extremely energetic. Bucharest was very elegant. Dubrovnik feels like something straight out of a film (and after all, it really was the backdrop for Game of Thrones).

Sofia is less easy to pin down. The Bulgarian capital feels rough, as if it's just doing its own thing, because that's how it's always been. And yet it has a soft side, because when you get talking to the locals, you quickly notice their great serenity and a keen sense of what's important – and that importance has to do with food and drink.

Of course, Sofia's buildings are definitely worth seeing – gold-adorned domes, a minaret practically next to the magnificent portal of the synagogue (separated only by a Kaufland supermarket) and magnificent theatres, parks and museums are clear signs of an up-and-coming European capital with a long history.

But perhaps Sofia is actually a foodie paradise. Because apart from the hearty Balkan cuisine with its savoury grilled dishes, Bulgaria also benefits from its immediate proximity to Greece and Turkey. This means that there is also a very attractive salad, vegetable and dessert culture, and that meat-free diets are also possible without any problems.

Fresh, colourful, good: Shopska, the Bulgarian salad.

 

Those who wish to do so will also find a wide range of local wines. Or they can tap their own healing water from ancient springs in the middle of the city. Or buy fresh tomatoes at the market or orange juice that is truly worthy of the name. You can also do as the locals do and simply sit in a café for a few hours on a weekend afternoon and let the city work its magic on you. After all, Vitosha Boulevard, the artery of Sofia, certainly offers a better programme than most TV channels.

It is refreshing that Sofia seems to be largely untouched by mass tourism, which means that prices remain reasonable, both in terms of accommodation, restaurants, transport and local activities (many of which are free).

So is a city break to the Bulgarian capital worthwhile? Absolutely yes – especially for travellers who like to set off on their own and find tourist infrastructure rather tedious. Because if you take a closer look, you will discover a lot of warmth and an exciting culture behind the rough façade.

 

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Good to know

 

Sofia can be reached daily from Zurich with Swiss flights. However, it is also possible to travel by train or car, but this takes a little longer – around 27 hours (train) or 18 hours (car, driving time only). Bulgaria recently joined the Schengen Agreement, making it very easy to enter the country from Switzerland or neighbouring EU countries.

Sofia has a well-functioning metro system (simply check in and out with your credit card, no ticket required). Uber is not available in Sofia, but there is a good and reliable local taxi service with its own app called Volt – ideal if you can't get anywhere by metro or on foot. Volt is slightly more expensive than local taxis, but thanks to the app, it is much less prone to minor scams.

As in most major European cities, there is a wide range of accommodation options. We opted for a fairly new hotel in the city centre, the Juno. Its location on a side street off Vitosha Boulevard couldn't be better, yet our room was quiet and extremely chic. The Juno isn't particularly cheap for Sofia, but the location and facilities are worth the price.

 

As described above, Sofia is a foodie destination, so here is a selection of places that stuck in our minds:

• Raketa Rakia Bar: Located just outside the city at the foot of a prefabricated building, with a space-age atmosphere. Great, rustic cuisine, unfiltered, warm service and definitely worth the walk. Beware of the pickled chilli peppers – when the Raketa Bar describes something as hot, it means exactly that.

  
  

• Shtastlivetsa Restaurant: An extensive menu of Bulgarian specialities, freshly prepared. Unfussy service and a very relaxed atmosphere.

  
  

• Constantinoff: One of the fancier places on Vitosha Boulevard, and definitely not cheap. The cuisine is top-notch and the service incredibly attentive. Even the desserts are grilled here – well worth trying.

  
  

• Handmade Banitsa Shop: Banitsa is a snack made from puff pastry with cheese, spinach and/or minced meat that can be enjoyed at any time of day. This small snack bar in the city centre is a great place to try it – and they are happy to explain everything patiently. Please note: card payments are not accepted here.