The Big T

When you think of Canada, you imagine wilderness. There is less of this in the metropolis of Toronto than in the rest of the country. Instead, the country's largest city inspires with diversity, big city vibes and a large portion of serenity.

Slowly it becomes visible. One high-rise building, one skyscraper after another pushes itself into our view. In the rush hour traffic jam, the Toronto skyline slowly builds up. But the sky is blue, the evening is mild and Lake Ontario is lapping comfortably in the late summer. So far, so relaxed?

Sure, Toronto is a megacity, it doesn't get any bigger than this in Canada. Toronto is a financial center, a university location and a transport hub. Nevertheless, it feels quieter, clearer and friendlier than other metropolitan areas. And also more diverse.

Street art à la Canadienne

 

Also, like so many large cities, Toronto has social problems which are clearly visible. Homelessness is the most obvious one, especially in the city center. The sight of tents there may not fit in at all with the idea of icy Canadian winters. As a traveler, you are unlikely to be able to fully understand the core of these issues in just a few days, so the question remains as to what extent Toronto does better or worse at overcoming its social challenges than comparable cities. What is certain is that downtown Toronto feels much more relaxed than other downtowns in North America, such as Houston, which we visited last year.

 

We start our exploration tour at St. Lawrence Market, an indoor market in the middle of the city. On this morning, the hall is quiet, we can take a leisurely look at what's on offer and discover beautifully presented fruit, tourist souvenirs with maple leaves, squeaky cheese for the national fast food dish “poutine” and a few stalls that are also visited by locals for an early lunch or a late coffee break. A relaxed setting, a cozy start to our Canadian adventure.

History meets the present: Distillery District

 

We continue our walk through the hot late summer city towards the Distillery District. A new district has been created on the site of a former whisky distillery, full of cafés, small stores, bars and restaurants. We leisurely explore the old industrial buildings, with only the occasional mouse or squirrel darting through the picture. Nature is present even in the middle of the city.

 

And just a short distance away, on the shores of Lake Ontario, the maple trees are slowly changing color and offering us a foretaste of Canadian autumn. The long lakeside promenade has a southern European feel to it, which is no doubt due to the warm September temperatures.

Toronto: a serious skyline

Our city walk takes us back into the city center, where we criss-cross between the skyscrapers through the financial center. We enjoy the vibrancy of the metropolis, which really picks up towards the afternoon and evening. But we have one more stop before we dive into evening Toronto - High Park on the western edge of the city center.

 

The northern entrance is wildly overgrown, and the park is also wildly inhabited. This refers less to the golden retrievers and poodles of the walking “Torontonians” than to the countless birds, insects and, above all, chipmunks and squirrels. The bushes rustle everywhere, and it probably wouldn't be surprising if you were hit by an errant nut in the park at some point. A peaceful place despite the rodents determined to do anything, especially in view of the nearby city center.

 

Big City Life at Dundas Square

And it is right there, in the middle of it all, that our Canadian adventure comes to an end before we board the train to the north-east the next morning. Dundas Square in Toronto is described as being right in the middle of things, a small Canadian version of New York's Times Square or Shibuya Crossing in Tokyo. Many things take place there at the same time, from events to shopping opportunities, lots of street traffic, fountains and restaurants - what is striking is not only the relaxed atmosphere, but also the complete absence of green spaces. Our dinner in one of the local restaurants with a view of the evening's hustle and bustle is incredibly entertaining and actually makes us want to spend a few more days in Toronto - but we'll soon be moving on.

 

More on this coming soon!

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Good to know

Toronto is the most important transportation hub in Canada and is easily accessible from the larger European airports. Unless Air Canada is planning a strike - in the end, our flight worked out perfectly, but the need to have a plan B was nerve-wracking. A direct flight from Zurich takes around 9 hours, and there are waiting times at immigration and baggage claim. Regardless of the means of transport, the transfer to the city center takes between 30 and 60 minutes.

In Toronto itself, many things are within walking distance, but there is also a well-developed subway, streetcar and bus network. Uber vehicles are readily available and relatively inexpensive.

 

The number of accommodations in a city like Toronto is hard to keep track of, there is something for everyone. However, the prices tend to be rather painful. Our hotel was a chance find of the wonderful kind. Although “The Ivy at Verity” only has four rooms, they are very nice and spacious and relatively quiet - the price-performance ratio is almost exceptional for Toronto.

 

There is no shortage of restaurants and cafés either, and apart from the Canadian fast food icon Tim Horton's, the choice is huge. In the Distillery District, for example, there are many cozy addresses, Joey on Dundas Square is a little more formal with an American vibe, but you can hardly have a more central, chic dinner in Toronto.